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Thread: 8.5 GT500 Tuning Question

  1. #1
    Junior Member Fawn
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    Default 8.5 GT500 Tuning Question

    I have a question about timing my GT500.

    First off, I have it timed right now so the draw stops touch at exactly the same time. I used my draw board as well as my press to twist and untwist the cables and string accordingly. Brace and A2A are both right on the money. According to my scale, the draw weight is at 70.8 pounds and peaks at the correct time.

    Now however, my timing marks on my cams are in two different places. My top cam cable crosses through the center dot, and my bottom cam crosses through the first dot (or closest to the limb. See pictures below).

    Also, it looks like the bottom cam seems to be starting more advanced than the top cam. I guess I just do not understand how the draw stops can be touching at the exact same time, but the cams themselves are telling me they are out of sync. The stops are in the same position on each cam.

    Question:
    What do I need to do to get my cams synced while the bow is at rest, but still keep the draw stops touching at the same time when at full draw?
    Right now, if I get the cams timed according to the dots on the cams one draw stop or the other is not touching the limb. If I sync the cams according to the draw stops, the dots are not showing they are synced and the bottom cam seems to be starting more advanced than the top. I have searched this site as well as Archerytalk and can not find the answer to this question. I guess maybe the bow is synced because the draw stops are touching at the right time.

    Here are a couple pictures:

    Top Cam-Full draw
    Topcam1.jpg

    Bottom Cam-Full Draw
    Bottomcam1.jpg

    Top cam-at rest
    Topcam2.jpg

    Bottom cam-at rest
    Bottomcam2.jpg

  2. #2
    Moderator MoBuzzCut's Avatar
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    When you time the bow dont time it to the draw stops.
    I Back the draw stops of a little. the I set the timimg on the cams to the same dot on the cams. I watch my scale when drawing the bow on the draw board and watch for it to hit the lowest weight and start to climb then back back off to that lowest weight. Check the timing marks to see if they are on the same mark.
    Then I redraw the bow on the drawboard and see that it is hitting the max weight in the first six inches of draw then watch the weight as i draw the bow to the lowest weight. Check the marks to make sure they are on the same dot. If they are then I move the draw stops to the limbs.
    I never synch a Bianary cam at rest
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  3. #3
    Moderator Stag Maybee-R's Avatar
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    Set the bows draw length and peak weight right. sync the cams and set the stops to hit at the same time.
    If you time it at rest and one of the limbs deflections very your messing up the nock travel. because these are slaved together its better to sync the cams at full draw.
    If draw length and weight are right you can adjust timing later to see different results in speeds.
    When doing this though you will effect draw length slightly. Ive found most work best set about 1/8th to 3/16 longer then the number on the cam. (29 cam set at 29 1/8th)
    No ifs and or buts Just maybee.

  4. #4
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    Thanks fellas. I got it! Now I just need to find that sweet spot and lowest holding weight. Both cams are synced and on the dot closest to the limbs. Do you feel the bows feels better at a particular dot, or is that what the 1/8 to 3/16 long is for?

    Chase

  5. #5
    Moderator Stag Maybee-R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chasemukluk View Post
    Thanks fellas. I got it! Now I just need to find that sweet spot and lowest holding weight. Both cams are synced and on the dot closest to the limbs. Do you feel the bows feels better at a particular dot, or is that what the 1/8 to 3/16 long is for?

    Chase
    Longer will rotate the cams to the next dots. It also lowers the holding weight. Valley will feel longer also.
    No ifs and or buts Just maybee.

  6. #6
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    Is there a method of witch cable to twist or untwist for specific cam being out of sync. in lay-man terms? thanks

  7. #7
    Moderator Stag Maybee-R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoytwon View Post
    Is there a method of witch cable to twist or untwist for specific cam being out of sync. in lay-man terms? thanks
    Ill try. Say the top cam is on number 3 and the bottom cam is on number 4 dots.
    take a twist out of the top cams out side track. it will lengthen the travel to full draw and shorten the bottom cams travel to hopefuly end up at 3.5 on both cams.
    No ifs and or buts Just maybee.

  8. #8
    Respected Member Ten Point bfoot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoytwon View Post
    Is there a method of witch cable to twist or untwist for specific cam being out of sync. in lay-man terms? thanks
    Maybee-R is correct as usual. One thing to consider is whether your draw weight is a little light or heavy. If light, better to add twist to the cable that is moving to fast, that way, you get a slight increase in draw weight. If weight is a little high, untwist the cam as Maybee-R noted. If perfect draw wt, you can add a twist to one cam and remove one from the other, has the same effect as adding two twists to one.
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  9. #9
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    Sounds great i'll give it a try, thanks again for clearing it up.

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