Hey guys I am new to the bianarys I was wondering where the timming marks are on the cams? How do I know if the cams are in time. Thanks for all of the help.
Timming Marks
Hey guys I am new to the bianarys I was wondering where the timming marks are on the cams? How do I know if the cams are in time. Thanks for all of the help.
From Mr. Dave Nowlin, " set the adjustable drawstop so that it hits the limb face with about a 1/16 inch gap between the draw stops on the modules and the cables. Why? It's simple, observe the adjustable drawstop, you will see that it is covered by a piece of heat shrink tubing with a bulge in the middle. This bulge is caused by an O ring. When you draw hard into the wall this O ring is compressed. If you set the adjustable draw stop up in a way that allows the draw stops on the modules to make contact when the adjustable drawstop first touches the limb you will distort the cables back toward you as the cam rolls over further as you compress the O-ring.
Change is Mandatory - Growth is Optional
Whatever all of that means. I was just wondering if there was some quick reference marks on the cams that align with the limbs I would like daves info though he seems like a smart guy.
NO timing marks.. there are cable stops that need to be in sync with each otherOriginally Posted by Mathews4ever
On any binary cam, you never go off of the timing marks. You have to time the bow at full draw with a draw board. You get the draw stop on the modules to hit at the same time on both cams. Then you move the moveable draw stop in to place. You want to get the draw as close to AMO as possible, which means getting the the cams in the correct rotation.
I shoot what feels the best, who will make it this year??
How do I know without a draw board? I don't have one yet. I did some measuring and I am about a 1/4" long ATA what do I have to twist to get this back to spec. Do I twist both cables strings I am really confused on the bianary cams. Any help would be great. Thanks guys.
You would untwist the cables and twist the string, this will shorten the draw and keep the bow in spec.
You don't have to have a draw board, go to the local hardware store and get an anchor hook for in the wall. It has to be atleast 1/4th inch, more if you can. Drill a hole in to a 2x4 in the wall, and screw it in. This way you can draw the bow on the hook, and watch the cams. I actually like this way better than a draw board. It is faster, and easier to do.
The binary system is very easy to tune, and play with. You just have to know what you are doing, just like everything else. It takes a little time, but you will get it figured out.
I shoot what feels the best, who will make it this year??
Now just hook your digital scale to it and your dun.
Just be sure to let your bow off straight up after checking with no sleeves etc. in the way. A friend of mine was checking his bow weight this way and when he was letting the bow back down he destroyed his new Winners Choice String and cable, cam and one limb on his Outback.
I have no idea how or what he did, we have been doing this for years and this is the first time anything like this ever happened.
Guess I'm glad we only need short sleeves in Ca.Just be sure to let your bow off straight up after checking with no sleeves etc. in the way. A friend of mine was checking his bow weight this way and when he was letting the bow back down he destroyed his new Winners Choice String and cable, cam and one limb on his Outback.
I have no idea how or what he did, we have been doing this for years and this is the first time anything like this ever happened.
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