Bare shaft tuning 10' Z28

[shootstraight17]

Very new to tuning and bare shaft tuning. My nocks are left of center and I have read that you need to tweak the cable a 1/2 twist, my question is I am only familiar with a yoke system (which you would tweak the left side) and the z28 is not so which cable to tweak the top or bottom and if this is wrong let me know. Like I said I am very new and want to learn how to do things myself.

[Dave Nowlin]

At what distance are you attempting to paper tune? Many attempt to do this too close to the paper. Get the best tear you can at 10 feet then back up to 21 feet and get serious about getting the best paper tear possible.

[MitchellCPA]

Here is a link to a read that will over view bare shaft tuning. Although it is on a trad bow site, this is a good overview. It would not hurt to read the whole thing, but to get to the bare shaft part, scroll down to the tuning part.

http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm


Bare shafting enables you to get your set up matched to optimum flight. However, with a compound, there are some variables that can be used to compensate. Normally, a nock left flight (arrow tail end drifting to the left as it flies down range) indicates a shaft that is too weak for a RH shooter. The text response for a trad guy would be to get a stiffer arrow (shorter, lighter head weight) or increase poundage. A compound guy can also move the rest around.

The yoke tuning seems to become a factor when you have eliminated all other variables and still cannot get the shaft perfect. I think that is normally something you look at after working through all other explanations.

Yoke tuning seems to go hand in hand with tweaking or correcting cam lean at full draw. Since Elites do not have a yoke, some people do this through changing the shims.

Study that site info. I think it will be helpful.

There may be others who can help better than me. Since no one else seemed to be jumping in, I though I'd do what I could.

Good luck.

[shootstraight17]

Thanks Mitchellcpa for the read and your help. I mentioned my nocks were ending left of center I was wrong they are right of center. From 20 yards I am hitting about 6-8" to the left of my arrows with feathers and the nock is right or center. I tried moving the rest left and right but it didnt help much I also shot a weaker arrow with no luck (shooting 7595 exp hunters 29" 125gr and went to 5575, 100gr) The cams are timed and if there is any lean you cant notice. Broadheads are shooting only 1/2"-1" left of fieldpoints.

[MitchellCPA]

For a right hand shooter, if the shaft is too stiff, the nock will drift to the right, and the point of impact will go left of your spot. So I would begin by trying: increasing your draw weight (makes the bow want a stiffer shaft), a weaker shaft (different spine class), a heavier point (has effect of weakening) or a longer shaft (makes it more limber or weaker). An inch longer will make a very significant difference. I am not suggesting you actually need to be an inch longer. I just wanted to give you some perspective. Sometimes as little as a 1/4" longer shaft will straighten up the bare shaft. It's one of those things you have to play with.

When a bare shaft is hitting left, and nocking right, the most likely first guess is too stiff. Yes, it can be a cam lean thing, but I would begin with the above to see if at some point I could not get it perfect, or at least begin to see the revers. That is when the nock drifts left and the strike point is to the right, you have gone past optimum to a shaft that is too weak.

[MitchellCPA]

Also, be careful of your grip. If you are not griping the bow correctly, bare shafting can be difficult.