Broadhead tuning

[bgriff008]

He means if your arrows are under spine for the draw weight and length you can if you want to, turn it down and see. its a good way to find the best results. Or lighten the tip weight, same as adding to weaken the spine on a stiffer arrow.

When you say under spine, are you saying my arrows are too flexible for my draw weight or too stiff. Im only into my second year of bow hunting and still learning the lingo. Im shooting 28 inch arrows with blazer wraps and 2" blazer vanes with 100gr BH....Like I said, Im really close and will try turning my rest in little more until my BH's meet the FP's and then readjust my site, which should get them both together.

[Maybee-R]

When you say under spine, are you saying my arrows are too flexible for my draw weight or too stiff. Im only into my second year of bow hunting and still learning the lingo. Im shooting 28 inch arrows with blazer wraps and 2" blazer vanes with 100gr BH....Like I said, Im really close and will try turning my rest in little more until my BH's meet the FP's and then readjust my site, which should get them both together.

Im speaking in general. Not about your set up sorry for the confusion.
But yes arrows have spine and to weak can be worse then to stiff.

[wassaw]

you could try a "walk back tune". when i run into the situation your in and get frustrated i'll do the WBT.
what it does for me is take the "broadhead" variable out of the equation for tuning. once i know the bow is set right and field tips hit straight up and down the line from 10-40 i know the bow is right. (50-60 i shoot but also know that hitting a 1/2" wide black stripe at that distance is a lot of "me" in the equation.. 10-40 i can hit it or know if i fluked the shot)
then i start shooting broadheads. more times than not all is good in the world but sometimes i find that they (broadheads) still hit left arrrg. then i start turning the nocks and see if that helps, if not i start grabbing a different spine or length arrow and use the same broadheads to see what that bow is wanting.

just adding to what has been given above.

[bgriff008]

Ya I would love to try to stiffer shafts, like the 350's and see how that does, but dont want to buy a dozen like I would have too (Harvest Time Archery). But stiffer spine may help, may not. I purchased the 400 flex, because that was what was recommended for a bow shooting 62. Even though Im on the border. If my arrows were 29 inch as opposed to 28, then the 350 shaft (stiffer) was recommended.

[Perry24]

Ya I would love to try to stiffer shafts, like the 350's and see how that does, but dont want to buy a dozen like I would have too (Harvest Time Archery). But stiffer spine may help, may not. I purchased the 400 flex, because that was what was recommended for a bow shooting 62. Even though Im on the border. If my arrows were 29 inch as opposed to 28, then the 350 shaft (stiffer) was recommended.

Jerry at South Shore Archery Supply sells single arrows. He also happens to be one of the best arrow builders out there!

[bgriff008]

Jerry at South Shore Archery Supply sells single arrows. He also happens to be one of the best arrow builders out there!

Great Thanks

[trkhunter]

If your in Columbus you could also check out Old English Outfitters in Tipp City to get some single arrows. I was having the same issue as you with my 09 z shooting 27.5'' flatline 340's shootin left with broadheads and basically did what Wassaw said. I didn't want to move my rest at first cause my field points were shooting great and I was shooting bullets through paper but I eventually started inching my rest right for broadheads and walkback tuning each time I did this for my field points. Eventually they were hitting spot on.

[bgriff008]

I have both my BH's and FP's hitting together at 20 yards. Not sure how that translates to further distances but Im hoping its dead on from further back.

[BlindBuck]

I have both my BH's and FP's hitting together at 20 yards. Not sure how that translates to further distances but Im hoping its dead on from further back.

Glad to see you got it worked out was reading this thread and was gonna post some things you can do to change the dynamic spine of the arrows you have rather then purchase another dozen. But I will post it for future reference anyway and for anyone else who is unclear.

Static Spine of an arrow: is the at rest measure of stiffness. The standard for measuring spine is to measure the deflection of the shaft at the midpoint of a 28 inch span when placed under a 1.94 pound load. The more deflection, the less stiff the shaft and vice versa the less deflection the stiffer the shaft.

Note: I also read somewhere that the arrow should be 29" long when measuring spine???? Not a 100% on that one especially since raw shafts are longer then that to start with, so how would a manufacture check tolerances. Maybe somebody with more knowledge on the subject will chime in.


Dynamic Spine of an arrow: The bending and recovery properties of an arrow during its flight.



How to change your dynamic spine

Change in Tip Weight - Lighter(Stiffer) Heavier(Weaker)
Adding Weight to Rear of arrow - More Weight(Stiffer) Less Weight(Weaker)
Arrow Length - Longer(Weaker) Shorter(Stiffer)

Other things also effect your dynamic spine like serving material, release style and so on but I do not know exactly how they effect it so I can't comment on that. Possibly a FITA guy will help on that also, since they are normally spine gurus. At least I learned about spine from one some 20+ years ago.lol

[LakeinX2]

Try just spinning the arrow and broadhead in a arrow square to see if the broad head is in there true, and are you shooting multiple BH arrows or just the one arrow?