Broadhead tuning

[Perry24]

I've been reading up on tuning broadheads to your field points. All seem to agree with how to fix the horizontal issue my moving your rest either left or right. However, with the vertical issue, some say to adjust your rest, others say to move your nocking point. Anyone know which method is better for correcting the vertical issue? Also, should I fix the vertical issue first then the horizontal?

FWIW, my broadheads are hit high and left of my field points. The further I go back, the higher the broadheads are hitting. At 30 yards it is about 2-3 inches high and only about an 1-2 inches left. I haven't gone back any further than that.

The bow is a GT500, 29", 61#. The arrow is a Flatline 340, 28" carbon to carbon, g-nock and uni bushing, 3 Flex Fletch Flash vanes fletched offset, and 125 grain Slick Trick standard. OT2 shows it being on the stiffer side of good.

[hyj]

Moving the rest vs. Moving the nock point accomplishes the same thing, its just easier to move the rest for small adjustments as opposed to re tying your loop. That is within reason, assuming your arrow remains reasonably close to being centered on the berger hole after adjustments. If that's not the case, then its worth moving your loop to start from a good place. I usually correct vertical first, and one can affect the other...

[doncrs]

Now if you were using a traditional prong rest,i would tell you to adjust the spring tension;for example,if your broad heads were high,you would lighten the spring tension and if it was low you would increase the tension.Now since you are using a fall away rest you just need to move the nock up or down or rest if you dont want to retie your loop,but it dont take much,just move it a tiny fraction at a time.Now if you have no success with this then you might have to adjust draw weight to bring them together.

[Perry24]

Thanks for the input guys. I'll mess with the rest first and see if I can get them together. This is why I wish the Limb Driver was micro adjust. Moving it in small increments is very challenging.

[bgriff008]

I was able to achieve FP & BH shooting to almost identical. They shoot about 2-3 inches to the left and right from each other. I moved my rest to the right to bring my BH's in, but that moved my FP to the right a little, but more so for my BH's. Anyway, they are pretty close and with the micro adjustment on my HHA site, I just move it right or left 3 clicks to center which ever I am shooting. Im guessing that will have to be close enough.

[Maybee-R]

I was able to achieve FP & BH shooting to almost identical. They shoot about 2-3 inches to the left and right from each other. I moved my rest to the right to bring my BH's in, but that moved my FP to the right a little, but more so for my BH's. Anyway, they are pretty close and with the micro adjustment on my HHA site, I just move it right or left 3 clicks to center which ever I am shooting. Im guessing that will have to be close enough.

You should be able to get them dead on. Just a bit more time and work. Your gaining on it, it sounds like.
I slide my rest and resight my pin with fieldpoints. then check the broadheads until its dead on. when you move the rest your points will move also but your sight pin should need adjusted too. Your gaining faster with the broadheads then the fpoints.

[bgriff008]

You should be able to get them dead on. Just a bit more time and work. Your gaining on it, it sounds like.
I slide my rest and resight my pin with fieldpoints. then check the broadheads until its dead on. when you move the rest your points will move also but your sight pin should need adjusted too. Your gaining faster with the broadheads then the fpoints.

Well, then I may need to move my rest a little more to the right. Problem is, my rest is no longer at the 7/8 measurment from the berger holes, but I guess that is what I have to do. So once I move my rest, I guess I have to move my site to site in the FP's again.

[doncrs]

Check to see if your arrows are spinning true,because if there is any wobble at all, they will NOT TUNE,especially the broadhead it has to spin perfectly,or it will not fly right at all.

[Topcat]

Do you have modular or dl specific cams? From my personal experience, the newer the bow year, the easier it is to BH tune. Also, direct from Elite Customer Service, there were some 08.5 ish GT500's bows that need some change in shims to get the centershot within specs. If you've got modular cams, forget about shimming.

FWIW, I've been able to get my 08.5 GT500 61/28.5 to tune with 400 spine ST axis cut 27.5" w/ 100 gr. tips. These are probably toward the weak side.

[Maybee-R]

Well, then I may need to move my rest a little more to the right. Problem is, my rest is no longer at the 7/8 measurment from the berger holes, but I guess that is what I have to do. So once I move my rest, I guess I have to move my site to site in the FP's again.

Probably on the stiff side of the spine charts? This will change center shot a tad. or even weak side can change the center shot. 7/8ths is just a recommended starting place. You got it!