A little more specific timing dot clarification

[doubled]

There is a bunch of info on this site to search through and if this specific subject has already been discussed and "put to bed" I apologize in advance for asking it again. However....Since we are all in this quest together to get our bows shooting lights out I will ask it....
Is there any factory specific info or any Elite Guru tribal knowledge out there stating for example: If my Elite Judge is a 28.5DL and my cam orientation holes are in spec (and all other specs are spot on) then which timing dot should the cams fall on at full draw? I know there are many variables which will cause the the cables to fall above diferent dots. Maybe just "ballpark" as to where they will line up, say for example "anywhere from the 2nd-4th dot". I am looking for any info someone out there might have for Rev cams specifically. Thanks for your time. DD

[Maybee-R]

The reason there isn't a specific number count on dots is because it dont matter.
If you want more holding weight or less or depending on draw stop settings those dots change. Just make sure they are equal dots and use them for syncing the cams only.
They are not there for timing at all.

[doubled]

The reason there isn't a specific number count on dots is because it dont matter.
If you want more holding weight or less or depending on draw stop settings those dots change. Just make sure they are equal dots and use them for syncing the cams only.
They are not there for timing at all.

Please help me out but isn't setting the timing of the cams and syncing the cams not the same? I am only trying to learn here so please don't take offense. If I set the timing on my old '78 chevy 350 is that not the same as saying I am setting synchronization or timing of sparking of the plugs with the combustion cycle of the cylinders?

If I start out for example with a my 28.5" DL on my Elite Judge, my cam orientation holes even with the limbs (or as close to it as possible) as called for from Elite, my draw stops set for max letoff and all my other factory specs spot on. Shouldn't the timing marks fall somewhere predictable? If I then Buy 100 more Elite Judge's (they are getting pretty cheap here lately) and set them up exactly or as close to my original Judge as possible then shouldn't these bows also fall on the same marks or close to it?

I would appreciate any info as I am just a rookie bow tuner with lots of questions!

[3Fletch]

Please help me out but isn't setting the timing of the cams and syncing the cams not the same? I am only trying to learn here so please don't take offense. If I set the timing on my old '78 chevy 350 is that not the same as saying I am setting synchronization or timing of sparking of the plugs with the combustion cycle of the cylinders?

If I start out for example with a my 28.5" DL on my Elite Judge, my cam orientation holes even with the limbs (or as close to it as possible) as called for from Elite, my draw stops set for max letoff and all my other factory specs spot on. Shouldn't the timing marks fall somewhere predictable? If I then Buy 100 more Elite Judge's (they are getting pretty cheap here lately) and set them up exactly or as close to my original Judge as possible then shouldn't these bows also fall on the same marks or close to it?

I would appreciate any info as I am just a rookie bow tuner with lots of questions!

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you want your cams at idle (non drawn bow) to be in the same location as each other. Then with the bow drawn the cams should be oriented the same but they will not necessarily be indexed at the cam marks. You can check the orientation based on where the string or a cable crosses a certain spot on the cam. As long as they are both oriented the same at idle and full draw you should be good to go. I would also check them about 3/4 draw as well since the draw stops will effect the orientation if the cams are not synced and the stops are both hit at full draw giving the appearance of the cams being synced.

[Maybee-R]

Because not all limbs are Identical orientation may differ. timing is setting the cams to rotate from a starting point or finishing position. synchronizing the cams helps them finish or start at the same time.
Dots are only on the cams for a reverence to synchronize the cams together. You time them at rest usually so they start at the same time. this will let you adjust draw length and peak weight. Holes closer to the limb might help peak earlier. to much shortens the draw length. Holes away will lengthen draw and change peak weight later in the draw cycle. also create more let off. less holding weight and bigger feeling valley.
Two bows can very on dots depending on all the above. Draw stops in or out slightly will change number of dots.

When starting check the holes for a reverence and sync the cams to the dots. then adjust by adding to the cables or string. or subtracting from either for feel.
You cant have two of the same bows Identical. mostly because some limbs have a hotter spot then others. Flex them all the same and speeds will still very slightly. But tweak them and you can get them all shooting closer to the same speeds. Its just time consuming and there isn't any given numbers for all bows. trial by error mostly, different draw lengths change dots also. more rotation.
I have string specs to set the bows up with here and its a short cut but not perfect for each bow. different draw lengths and limbs can make one bow respond to the set specs better then another. same as if setting to a certain number of dots.

Hope this helps. And I didnt forget much i typed more in the response then my brain can remember. lol! Ill proof read later.

[doubled]

Because not all limbs are Identical orientation may differ. timing is setting the cams to rotate from a starting point or finishing position. synchronizing the cams helps them finish or start at the same time.
Dots are only on the cams for a reverence to synchronize the cams together. You time them at rest usually so they start at the same time. this will let you adjust draw length and peak weight. Holes closer to the limb might help peak earlier. to much shortens the draw length. Holes away will lengthen draw and change peak weight later in the draw cycle. also create more let off. less holding weight and bigger feeling valley.
Two bows can very on dots depending on all the above. Draw stops in or out slightly will change number of dots.

When starting check the holes for a reverence and sync the cams to the dots. then adjust by adding to the cables or string. or subtracting from either for feel.
You cant have two of the same bows Identical. mostly because some limbs have a hotter spot then others. Flex them all the same and speeds will still very slightly. But tweak them and you can get them all shooting closer to the same speeds. Its just time consuming and there isn't any given numbers for all bows. trial by error mostly, different draw lengths change dots also. more rotation.
I have string specs to set the bows up with here and its a short cut but not perfect for each bow. different draw lengths and limbs can make one bow respond to the set specs better then another. same as if setting to a certain number of dots.

Hope this helps. And I didnt forget much i typed more in the response then my brain can remember. lol! Ill proof read later.

Awesome!!! Thank you sir this is what I was looking for. Now I believe!!! I did not take the limb flex variable into consideration, that is the "golden nugget" of info I can now take with me as I continue to learn. Also thanks for clarifying the difference between timing and syncing the cams. Take care, DD

[ba3darcher]

Because not all limbs are Identical orientation may differ. timing is setting the cams to rotate from a starting point or finishing position. synchronizing the cams helps them finish or start at the same time.
Dots are only on the cams for a reverence to synchronize the cams together. You time them at rest usually so they start at the same time. this will let you adjust draw length and peak weight. Holes closer to the limb might help peak earlier. to much shortens the draw length. Holes away will lengthen draw and change peak weight later in the draw cycle. also create more let off. less holding weight and bigger feeling valley.
Two bows can very on dots depending on all the above. Draw stops in or out slightly will change number of dots.

When starting check the holes for a reverence and sync the cams to the dots. then adjust by adding to the cables or string. or subtracting from either for feel.
You cant have two of the same bows Identical. mostly because some limbs have a hotter spot then others. Flex them all the same and speeds will still very slightly. But tweak them and you can get them all shooting closer to the same speeds. Its just time consuming and there isn't any given numbers for all bows. trial by error mostly, different draw lengths change dots also. more rotation.
I have string specs to set the bows up with here and its a short cut but not perfect for each bow. different draw lengths and limbs can make one bow respond to the set specs better then another. same as if setting to a certain number of dots.

Hope this helps. And I didnt forget much i typed more in the response then my brain can remember. lol! Ill proof read later.

Very well said, and understandable too. Good job Maybee