GTO Tuning Advice

[HammyAbeer]

I cant search the Tech Forum for GTO due to the 4 letter minimum.. So I figured I would ask if anyone had some cliff notes on tuning a GTO. Or is there a way to search for GTO somehow?

I just bought one off the classifieds and have some 28" modules on the way. I just read somewhere that it will probably be 28.5" DL.

Any cam orientation advice would be appreciated. I am putting her on the draw board this weekend.

[mchildress]

They are known to run about 1/2 long on the DL. When you have the GTO on the draw board you will want both draw stop arms in the cam to be about the thickness of a business card off the cable at full draw to get the bow in sync. Here is a chart if adjustments are needed. You will have to press the bow for these adjustments.http://www.elitearchery.com/technolo...ent_basics.pdf

This is interesting if you haven't seen.[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GJ6fVV3RfM[/ame]

[Rather B. Hunting]

I do mine in a pretty methodical way. I learned much on this forum, especially from Geno who took an entire evening and PM'ed me through my Z, and through lots of searches on bow tuning. But here is how I now tune my Elites:

1) Measure bow's draw length, draw weight, ata, and brace and record it. Also shoot it through a chrono if you have it.
2) Check timing. Put on draw board and check where cable crosses timing hole at full draw. If you use a drop away attached to the down cable, make sure this is installed because it will impact timing on that cam. Twist or untwist cable to adjust timing. I also look at cable post at rest and make sure that it is a fiber optic hair from hitting cable.
3) Check how far into draw maximum weight is attained. The closer to 6 inches you can get, the better. Mine are all around 6.5". To advance twist cables equally.
4) Now the fun part. Anybody can can more speed by gaining draw weight or draw length. But the trick is to gain it so you don't have to pull the thing back to your ear. So now that you may have twisted your cables, your draw length and weight are probably too long, too heavy. Twist string to reduce both. This might be a trial and error thing where you twist/untwist cable or string to get back to your length. I pay no attention to ata or brace yet. Once I'm back to my DL, I shoot in through the chrono again and hopefully am pleasantly surprised. If not, back to cable twisting. I think once you achieve full draw weight in the 6 to 6.5 inch range, you're basically done as far as getting more speed. But I could be wrong, I'm by no means an expert.
5) You can play with the draw stops a bit also to adjust valley and length.
6) Measure ata and brace. Hopefully you're within range of what a gto should be. Both of mine came dead on and I gained between 6 and 10 fps on each, so I was very pleased. I don't really care about the finished DW because if I'm pulling 61 or 63 or whatever, it doesn't matter.

Disclaimer: I'm by no means an expert, just a hack with a press and draw board who can probably just as easily get in trouble as fall into a well tuned bow!

But to borrow a line from Montgomery Gentry, I learned real quick those gto's don't run on faith!