Before you start tuning your bow

[buckndoe]

Good info guys. Thanks. I think I know what I'm getting for my birthday.

[K-ZONE]

Today i received a brand new Z28 to tune and both cables had 1/4in of seperation of the serving at the inside of the cams. I know this happens but when u are paying $700+ for a new bow.. this should not happen nor should u have to go aftermarket unless u are looking for custom colors.

[archer58inPA]

Today i received a brand new Z28 to tune and both cables had 1/4in of seperation of the serving at the inside of the cams. I know this happens but when u are paying $700+ for a new bow.. this should not happen nor should u have to go aftermarket unless u are looking for custom colors.

I have only purchased TWO new bows( out of 16) that did not need new strings and cables soon after buying it.
The sad truth is that factory strings from most manufacturer's are not as good as they should be for the energy they produce now days.
I feel your pain.

[K-ZONE]

I have only purchased TWO new bows( out of 16) that did not need new strings and cables soon after buying it.
The sad truth is that factory strings from most manufacturer's are not as good as they should be for the energy they produce now days.
I feel your pain.

The materials they use will handle the energy its in the quality control.I think we deserve to get what we pay for.

[bfoot]

I noticed a lot of guys are asking for tuning help. Either they don't have the speed they think they should have or they can't get to the third dot , etc, etc. What ever the tuning issue may be, BEFORE you start twisting and untwisting you need to MEASURE the cables and strings first.
So many tuning problems with these bows can be a direct result of stretched strings. Not all of them , but a lot.
Measuring the strings can save you a few headaches and a lot of time.

I know what your thinking....My bow is only a week old!!! How can the strings be stretched already. Don't assume they are not. ESPECIALLY if your speed,or ANY one of DL,DW,ATA and cam position is not correct.

Keep in mind this procedure needs to be done under 100lbs. of tension. This is key to a proper measurement.
Also , anchor your strings w/ a nail or spike the same size as the pegs on the cams. I believe it's 1/4 in. , but someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Measure them from the outside to outside of the loop.
There are a few simple ways to do it , and if you have a draw board you can use your immagination to find a way to anchor the end and attach it to your scale and winch to check the tension.
I know some members have built extensions for their boards to do measuring.

If you measure your strings first I think you'll find tuning much easier and a whole lot faster.
I hope this helps.

My God, the voice of reason. Yes, you always spec your string set at 100 lbs tension before doing anything. I do this with brand new custom strngs made by string makers I respect. I always do this when I buy a new or used bow and always do this when I tune my bow.

And you must do it as accurately as humanly possible. I use a 5 ft. drywall ruler as it is not flexible like a tape measure and much more accurate. One correction. You measure from the inside of the loop, not the outside. That is, you measure from where the loop contacts the post on both ends, which is the end of the loop where it touches the peg. . If you measure the outside of the loop, you add 1/16" on each end or 1/8" total which is an immense amount on cables. We may be saying the same thing using a different reference.

If you do not think it has to be completely accurate ask yourself why the specs for some cables is 35 5/32" rather than 35 1/8", like 1/32" is not going to make much difference right? No wrong, it makes a difference.
Every aspect of your bow is dependent on the correct lengths of your string and cables. The timing of the cam (which is none other than the starting position) is entirely dependent on the string set being correct. Same for draw weight and draw length, If you do this very very accurately, you will not need to add or remove more than one or two twists. It always amazes me when people give advice such as, "add two twists to your cables and one twist to your string". Most crazy thing I have ever heard. How could you possibly give such ridiculous advice when you do not even know if the string set has been speced. After twisting and untwisting you cannot ever get it in tune. That is the time to take the string and cables off and spec them and start over. It will save hours of time and frustration, I guarantee it. If you do not believe me, read Nuts&Bolts tuning guide.

[L-train]

My God, the voice of reason. Yes, you always spec your string set at 100 lbs tension before doing anything. I do this with brand new custom strngs made by string makers I respect. I always do this when I buy a new or used bow and always do this when I tune my bow.

And you must do it as accurately as humanly possible. I use a 5 ft. drywall ruler as it is not flexible like a tape measure and much more accurate. One correction. You measure from the inside of the loop, not the outside. That is, you measure from where the loop contacts the post on both ends, which is the end of the loop where it touches the peg. . If you measure the outside of the loop, you add 1/16" on each end or 1/8" total which is an immense amount on cables. We may be saying the same thing using a different reference.

If you do not think it has to be completely accurate ask yourself why the specs for some cables is 35 5/32" rather than 35 1/8", like 1/32" is not going to make much difference right? No wrong, it makes a difference.
Every aspect of your bow is dependent on the correct lengths of your string and cables. The timing of the cam (which is none other than the starting position) is entirely dependent on the string set being correct. Same for draw weight and draw length, If you do this very very accurately, you will not need to add or remove more than one or two twists. It always amazes me when people give advice such as, "add two twists to your cables and one twist to your string". Most crazy thing I have ever heard. How could you possibly give such ridiculous advice when you do not even know if the string set has been speced. After twisting and untwisting you cannot ever get it in tune. That is the time to take the string and cables off and spec them and start over. It will save hours of time and frustration, I guarantee it. If you do not believe me, read Nuts&Bolts tuning guide.

Question for you B. Elite lists a 1/4" tolerance on the limbs or ATA.
Does this not make the string/cables length need to vary?

[cgs1967]

I paper tuned my Answer but beyon that I don't know how to tune a bow. I'm in Ohio so maybe one day I will take it to Baldy and let him do some magic. I am just an average shooter so not sure how much difference it would make.

[thumper]

cgs1967 , With a tuned bow you may be the best archer in the world and just don't know it now ! Just think with a few tweeks here and there you'll be able to release all your untapped potential .

[cgs1967]

cgs1967 , With a tuned bow you may be the best archer in the world and just don't know it now ! Just think with a few tweeks here and there you'll be able to release all your untapped potential .

Thanks for the advice! I will take my bow to Baldy near Columbus and see if he will tune my bow along with my arrows. Maybe if I pay him he can watch me shoot and teach me a few things. I dont have any friends that shoot or hunt so I have to learn everything on my own.

[bfoot]

Question for you B. Elite lists a 1/4" tolerance on the limbs or ATA.
Does this not make the string/cables length need to vary?

No, it does not The variance, in my opinion has to do with slight differnces in limb deflection, riser angle, spacer thickness, etc, etc. Basically, the bows tolerances can and sometimes are slightly off changing the ata or brace. I do not recall seeing 1/4" difference. For instance for the Answer is is +or - .125 for ata. Same for the Pulse and the Pure. Remember, the string has much much less effect on the bow than the cables and ata is related to the string length. I looked through all the Elite specs and found none that was 1/4" but I understand your point.
My understanding is with the string set perfectly specedl, it can vary up to .125 but that does not mean you should not spec it correctly.