Intro, Synergy Questions

[gostomskij]

Hello all,


I would like to introduce myself to this forum. My name is Victor Gostomski. I live south of Houiston, TX. I have been involved in archery for the last 20+ years. About a month ago I found myself with a 15+ yr old PSE that just was not cutting the mustard anymore. So, off to the local achery (Santa Fe, Tx) shop I went. Shot 5 different brands, and 6 different bows. The next day I went back to pick up my Synergy. This was quite a suprise since I had never heard of Elite Archery before holding their bow in my hand. A very nice product to say the least. And, I had done some "research", and went to the shop with the intent to pick up a Bowtech Guardian. I guess the Synergy just "fit" me better.

Now I would like to pick the brains of those who are around this product more. First, the details.
30" draw
70#, set at 67#
28" easton 340 axis FMJ arrows w/ 125 grain tips (montec broadheads)


Questions:

1. My broadheads are hitting 4" to the left of the fieldpoints, overspined by the easton tuning guide. tried some 400 eastons, but they shot worse. Anyone have some helpful info on their simular setup.

2. The archery shop installed a different set of cams when I told them to change the draw lenght. The arrow on the cam points close to the #1 on the mod. What are the differences in the two sets of cams that came withthe bow?

3. Is there a adjustable let-off for this bow? If so, how do you make the adjustment. Is this done by changing the mod location to #2?

4. I have a QAD HD rest. How far below the shelf (at rest) do you have the rest string tied (to the buss cable).

5. I have looked at the STS system. I also see that Elite has their own version of this. Any comments for/againt this system. Where could i get a Elite version?


Thanks

Victor

[Michael]

I will take a crack at the broadhead/fieldpoint issue. Move your rest 1/16" to the right. Make a few of these adjustments and see if they com closer together. You do need to tune your broadheads to impact with your field tips. I do not know what vanes you are using, or if you have wraps installed, but the shaft in good with your set-up, if anything it is very slightly on the weak side. You may want to try taking 1/2 turn out of your limb bolts too.

2. The draw length adjusts by moving the mod to a different setting (as you stated above)
3. The let off is adjusted with the draw stop. You want the draw stop to touch, slightly before the module touches the cables (1/16" gap). If the mod hits before the draw stop it will damage you cables. Use a digital scale to measure peak weight, and holding weight. Your best performance will be around 70% let off.

[gostomskij]

I will take a crack at the broadhead/fieldpoint issue. Move your rest 1/16" to the left. Make a few of these adjustments and see if they com closer together. You do need to tune your broadheads to impact with your field tips. I do not know what vanes you are using, or if you have wraps installed, but the shaft in good with your set-up, if anything it is very slightly on the weak side. You may want to try taking 1/2 turn out of your limb bolts too.

2. The draw length adjusts by moving the mod to a different setting (as you stated above)
3. The let off is adjusted with the draw stop. You want the draw stop to touch, slightly before the module touches the cables (1/16" gap). If the mod hits before the draw stop it will damage you cables. Use a digital scale to measure peak weight, and holding weight. Your best performance will be around 70% let off.


Thanks for the reply. As for the arrow/broadhead. I have used 4" vanes, 2" blazers, and FOBs. All have close to the same result, left impact w/ BH's. I did try to tune w/ the rest also, but, the results did not bring them completely together. So, before going out and shelling out the $$ for 300 spined arrows, I wanted to get some opions. As far as the draw stop, with the adjustable stop hitting, the mod stops are just about touching. I can not feel a gap in them. I'll get a scale and do some adjustment for the let off. Thanks for the time.

Victor

[TEXAS 10PT]

Victor,
I shoot the same 28" arrows as you. My Synergy is 29"/70lb and I shoot 100 gr broadheads and they are perfect. You might try that. I experimented with 125 gr broadheads and could not get them to shoot at all. Just a thought. And yes the STS makes a difference.

TEXAS

[Michael]

You don't need a big gap, just be sure it is not hitting.

As TEXAS 10PT said, try the lighter tips. You do not need stiffer arrows, just some tunning to use what you have.

[TEXAS 10PT]

Dang Michael....I just saw your new signature. So the closer you get to 300 posts...you become an Elite Dealer????? LMAO

Congrats!!!!

TEXAS

[gostomskij]

Sound like another direction to try. Did that with my last bow (lighter tip) to get it tuned right. Just trying to keep the weight of the arrow as high as possible (I know that is a thread in itself). And I just adjusted the draw stop to get a little gap at the cams/cable.

Texas, did you also try the 300 splined arrows? And, what changed when you added the STS system.

Victor

[TEXAS 10PT]

No I never did try 300 spine arrows but that is what I would need to shoot 125 gr tips with my setup. If you wanted to still shoot your 125's with the same arrows, I believe you will need to shorten your arrows by an inch but with a 30 inch draw your broadhead starts inching too close to the inside of the shelf. I think you should try 100 gr. Heck mine weigh 458 gr finished and they are plenty heavy. The STS removes shock and quiets the bow down extremely well. I think its the best gadget you can buy for under $50 that really does what it is supposed to do.

TEXAS

[Michael]

Dang Michael....I just saw your new signature. So the closer you get to 300 posts...you become an Elite Dealer????? LMAO

Congrats!!!!

TEXAS

I wondered how long it would take for someone to notice that.

I don't think post count has anything to do with it though. I just finalized everything with the rep today, and I must say, Elite has a great rep in my area. I will be placing my first order on Monday. The closest dealer to me is Broken Rack Archery, which is a little far for me, but if you live in South West Ohio, give them a call. I talked to them about a month ago, and the owner really impressed me, anyway back to the point, there are no local dealers around here, so I took the plunge for a product I believe in.

[Elite_Brad]

2. The archery shop installed a different set of cams when I told them to change the draw lenght. The arrow on the cam points close to the #1 on the mod. What are the differences in the two sets of cams that came withthe bow?


The dealer would have only changed out the mods not the cams.

[gostomskij]

The dealer would have only changed out the mods not the cams.

You are right, my mistake. Would ya like to take a stab at any of the other items?


Victor

[bowfreaknasty]

Hello all,


I would like to introduce myself to this forum. My name is Victor Gostomski. I live south of Houiston, TX. I have been involved in archery for the last 20+ years. About a month ago I found myself with a 15+ yr old PSE that just was not cutting the mustard anymore. So, off to the local achery (Santa Fe, Tx) shop I went. Shot 5 different brands, and 6 different bows. The next day I went back to pick up my Synergy. This was quite a suprise since I had never heard of Elite Archery before holding their bow in my hand. A very nice product to say the least. And, I had done some "research", and went to the shop with the intent to pick up a Bowtech Guardian. I guess the Synergy just "fit" me better.

Now I would like to pick the brains of those who are around this product more. First, the details.
30" draw
70#, set at 67#
28" easton 340 axis FMJ arrows w/ 125 grain tips (montec broadheads)


Questions:

1. My broadheads are hitting 4" to the left of the fieldpoints, overspined by the easton tuning guide. tried some 400 eastons, but they shot worse. Anyone have some helpful info on their simular setup.
2. The archery shop installed a different set of cams when I told them to change the draw lenght. The arrow on the cam points close to the #1 on the mod. What are the differences in the two sets of cams that came withthe bow?

3. Is there a adjustable let-off for this bow? If so, how do you make the adjustment. Is this done by changing the mod location to #2?

4. I have a QAD HD rest. How far below the shelf (at rest) do you have the rest string tied (to the buss cable).

5. I have looked at the STS system. I also see that Elite has their own version of this. Any comments for/againt this system. Where could i get a Elite version?


Thanks

Victor


Actually if you broadheads are hitting to the left of your field points you need to move your rest to the right. Download the easton tuning guide and follow the instructions on broadhead tuning. Keep in mind when you move your rest, move it as little as possible. Take your time and keep moving it slightly until the heads impact together. Always remember to chase your field tip with your broadhead by moving your rest. Set your nocking point and leave it. Make all adjustments with your rest(makes it easier to remember which way to move). If your BH hits above the FP, move rest down a tick. If BH hits left of FP, move rest right a little. Take your time and make tiny adjustments and you will have them shooting at the same POI.

[Michael]

Good catch!, I was thinking of walk back tunning with field points. Sorry about that.

[TEXAS 10PT]

For me the Easton charts were just a starting point. The chart said I could shoot a 125 gr broadhead with a 340 spine arrow at 28" long but when I did the broadheads would not hit my target. Switched to a 100 gr head and bingo. I had already paper tuned and it was good so I suspected that the arrow was underspined with a 125 gr head. Bowfreaknasty gives good advice for broadhead tuning and if something simple like changing the weights of your head doesn't work, you should follow his advice to a tee.

TEXAS

[bowfreaknasty]

Good catch!, I was thinking of walk back tunning with field points. Sorry about that.

No problem man. There are so many techniques, it is easy to get screwed up.

Let us know how everything works out and if you get it shooting to your liking

[bowfreaknasty]

If you are only shooting field points and you don't walk back tune....paper tuning is the end all be all.

If you plan to shoot broadheads my advice would be to paper tune with field points. After this point go through the broadhead tuning like described above and you will be set. Keep in mind, if you go back and shoot that setup through paper it might not tear a bullet hole. So paper tuning is just the starting point IMHO.:)

[gostomskij]

Thanks for the replys. I started out paper tuning the bow,,, got bullet holes. BH flew left. Chased it by moving the rest towards the riser. Ran out of clearance (ran the rest the other way just to make sure also). Read the Easton tuning guide,,, all 38 pages. But, it didn't work out the way they show. I had a hunch from my past experiences, that the charts some times do not keep up with the bows. Or, in other words, the charts underspine the arrows due to the amount of energy the new cams introduce into the shaft. Today, I walk back tuned the bow,,, just because I have never done the center shot that way. Had to adjust the rest by about 1/32". Pretty neat way of tuning, and quick.

Remember, I had my last bow for a VERY long time. It was tuned to a tee for field tips and broadheads. But, it took a long time, and many different shafts to get it there. Again, the Easton charts underspined for that bow also.

So, it appears that I will chase the lighter FP, or heavier spine route.


Victor

[TEXAS 10PT]

Its cheaper to go to lighter heads then it is to buy a new dozen arrows. Just keep that in mind.

Hey Victor...do you work at Hobby?

TEXAS

[gostomskij]

Its cheaper to go to lighter heads then it is to buy a new dozen arrows. Just keep that in mind.

Hey Victor...do you work at Hobby?

TEXAS



It would be easy if I had not picked up the 125 montecs,,, and want the weight.


Been at Hobby off and on since 89. Been at the SWA Hobby hanger since 2000 (with them since 98). Where you located?

Victor

[TEXAS 10PT]

BA Cargo at Intercontinental. Been in this business for 30 years:eek::eek:

TEXAS

[Rattler]

Victor Pm Sent

I cant type all what I had to do to get optimal performance out of my shafts.....but I am as critical about stuff as one can be.